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Haida Gwaii (Queen Charlotte Islands)
Gray
Whales migrate between Baja California
and the Bering and Arctic Oceans
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Haida Gwaii,
formerly the Queen Charlotte Islands, is rich in wildlife in the
sky, the sea, and on the ground. Many of the animals are native,
but some - blacktail deer, elk, beavers, raccoons, and even wild
cows in Naikoon Provincial Park - are introduced. Among the native
species, expect to see black bears and river otters, birds such
as bald eagles, Steller's jays, and peregrine falcons, and all kinds
of ocean creatures, from grey and killer whales to jellyfish and
starfish.
One of the best
places to see the latter is in Burnaby Narrows on the east side
of Moresby Island, accessible only by boat from Moresby camp. Also
known as Dolomite Narrows, the waterway connects Juan Perez Sound
with Skincuttle Inlet. The narrows are about half a mile (1 km)
long, about 160 feet (50 m) wide, and quite shallow, especially
at low tide. The bottom is coloured with a cornucopia of sea life:
starfish, sea urchins, moon snails, clams, needlefish, sea cucumbers,
sea blubbers, red crab . . . the list goes on and on. Because of
the high nutrient content in the water, the aquatic life is almost
impossibly large and vibrant. From a kayak or other small boat the
viewing is good; with a mask and snorkel, it's even better. At low
tide it is possible to walk along the shore, but as this can't be
done without treading on delicate life forms, it is discouraged.
It can be reached
only by boat or plane, but nothing is more idyllic than relaxing
in a hot spring on Hotspring Island and watching a pod of orcas
swim past. Killer whales, or orcas, are often sighted in the Juan
Perez Sound region. Best time for whale watching is late spring
and early summer.
Eagles are a
common sight, as are dozens of other birds scattered about the islands.
A good place to go to is the Delkatla Wildlife Sanctuary near Masset,
at the head of the Delkatla inlet. Sandhill cranes stop here in
spring and fall on their migratory routes, and tundra swans stay
for the winter. Dozens of other birds - coots, snipe, and various
species of duck and geese among them - can be found here at different
times of the year. Another common resting spot for migrating birds
is the Rose Spit Ecological Reserve in Naikoon
Provincial Park.
Tufted
Puffin
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Fully one third
of the province's sea lion population calls Haida Gwaii home. A large
colony hauls up on Joseph Rocks, off the west coast of Graham Island,
miles away from the nearest point of road access. This is a trip best
made by boat or kayak. Only experienced paddlers should attempt travelling
along the exposed west coast of Haida Gwaii, though. A second,
water-access-only site for viewing sea lions is located at the southernmost
tip of Haida Gwaii, on a string of islands called the Kerouards.
All manner of seabirds, including the horned puffin, can also be seen.
Visitors in this area can never be sure what manner of creature will
show up. A pod of orcas, a grey or a humpbacked whale, or perhaps
a gang of Dall's porpoises, numbering up to 300 strong, may escort
you as you sail or paddle along in the southern section of Gwaii
Haanas National Park.
The Northeast
It is almost
impossible not to observe wildlife as you travel through the Northeast,
the so-called 'Serengeti of North America.' The area's spectacular
wildlife fauna consists of eight species of wild ungulates, namely
Stone sheep, mountain goats, bison, moose, elk, caribou, and white-tailed
and mule deer; plus at least seven species of large and medium-size
carnivores including wolves, coyotes, foxes, grizzly bears, black
bears, lynx, and wolverines. Deer, moose, bears, and elk frequent
clearings alongside roads, foraging for food. In some areas, salt
licks have been placed near the road to attract ungulates. Be careful
when driving these roads, especially at night; if you were to hit
a moose, chances are good that your vehicle would come out of the
encounter in worse shape than the moose. Honest.
Eskers
Provincial Park near Prince George has wheelchair-accessible
facilities to Pine Marsh and Circle Lake. Pine Marsh in particular
is a great place for bird-watching, but moose and beavers also inhabit
the park. To reach the park, travel about 25 miles (40 km) west
of Hwy 97 on Chief Lake Road.
Pink Mountain
is a designated viewing area for wildlife in this region, and places
have been cleared to provide browsing territory for ungulates. One
of the rarer browsing species is the plains bison, but almost all
the ungulates are represented, as well as several carnivorous species.
Pink Mountain's real claim to fame is the high population of rare
Arctic butterflies.
The defining
feature of Stone Mountain Provincial Park
is the mountains: great humps of raw stone rising from the valleys
below, where only the barest plant life - lichen, grasses, moss
- survive. You wouldn't expect to find much in the way of wildlife
here, and in truth, you won't find much on the bare slopes. But
the valleys are a different matter. Mountain caribou and Stone sheep
winter in some of the lower valleys, and mountain goats, moose,
and grizzly and black bears also frequent the valleys. A number
of bird species live in the park, none more magnificent than the
golden eagle. Watch for Stone sheep beside the Alaska Highway between
here and Liard River Hotsprings.
Fraser
Plateau
The Vanderhoof Bird Sanctuary in Riverside Park is a
migratory bird rest area on the Nechako River in Vanderhoof. Farther
north, Tyhee Lake Provincial Park, near Smithers, has trails and
a wildlife viewing platform in a marshy area on the popular lake
- popular, that is, with loons, grebes, beavers, and, oh yes, swimmers
and sunbathers in summer.
The
Bulkley and Skeena River Valleys
If you can't find the mythical monster in Seeley Lake, there's still
a chance to see a legend in this region - a white black bear. Native
legend in this area tells of a magical white bear that will help,
rescue, and protect humans. One of the rarest bears in the world,
the Kermode Bear, is found only in the Terrace area and on some
islands in the Douglas Channel. The Kermode bear (Ursus americanus
"kermodei") is a beautiful white bear that is only found in the
rain forests of the north coast of British Columbia. The Kermode
bear is not an albino, nor is it a polar bear, but rather a pale
colour form of the black bear. It ranges from light chestnut blond
to steel blue-grey, appearing almost white. These bears, once hunted
nearly to extinction, are now under provincial protection. Harming
the Kermode is strictly prohibited, but as the bears haven't signed
a reciprocal agreement, remember to use the same caution around
these animals as you would around any other bears.
The Gitnadoiks
River Provincial Park is home to mountain goats, moose, trumpeter
swans, and all five species of salmon. This classic, U-shaped valley
contains the entire drainage of the Gitnadoiks River, a major tributary
of the Skeena, upriver from Prince Rupert. The ocean currents backing
up into the Gitnadoiks, also known as the Gitnadoix River, are so
intertidal that seals pursue spawning salmon as far as 60 miles
(100 km) upstream to Alastair Lake. Alastair Lake is one of British
Columbia's three known nesting sites for trumpeter swans, the largest
waterfowl in the world. Getting to Alastair takes some effort. Unlike
its southern sister, the Stein Valley, the Gitnadoiks is not served
by a little river ferry to help adventurers cross the skookum Skeena
River. Charter aircraft or boat travel via the Skeena River from
Prince Rupert is the way to go.
Grizzly
Bear in Khutzeymateen
The good side of a charging Grizzly!
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In recognition
of the large bear population in this region, the first and only
grizzly bear sanctuary in Canada was established 28 miles (45 km)
northeast of Prince Rupert. As the Khutzeymateen
Grizzly Bear Sanctuary is a protected area, human activity is
not encouraged. However, controlled viewing is permitted, although
access is only by boat and floatplane. All visitors must register
at the ranger station near the Khutzeymateen River estuary. Viewpoints
look over the estuary and shoreline, and offer a chance to glimpse
the black bears, mountain goats, martens, wolverines, wolves, porcupines,
river otters, beavers, and harbour seals that share the sanctuary
with the grizzlies.
In March and
April, eulachon run in the mouth of the Skeena River. Basalt Creek,
in particular, offers good viewing. Turn off Highway 16 about 12
miles (20 km) east of Prince Rupert. This is a great opportunity
to also watch the seals, sea lions, eagles, and gulls in the hundreds,
which gather to feed on the small, silvery fish.
Eulachon contain so much oil that they are easily ignited once dried.
Try cooking one over a campfire on a thin, sharpened stick the same
way that you'd cook a hotdog: they are so tasty that you can eat
the whole fish, bones and all.
The
Stewart-Cassiar Highway (Hwy 37)
There's a fish ladder at the south end of Meziadin Lake in Meziadin
Lake Provincial Park, where the Nass River flows out. Chinook
spawn here in late summer, and it's truly an impressive sight. Fish
of up to 30 lbs (13.5 kg) leap into the air as they navigate the
ladder. Across Hwy 37 from Meziadin Lake is the Hanna Creek Salmon
Viewing Area. Best viewing time is late summer-early fall.
The four contingent
parks around the Stikine River - Tatlatui, Spatsizi Plateau, Stikine
River Provincial Park, and Mount Edziza - are home to hundreds of
animal species. Lands within Spatsizi Plateau
Provincial Wilderness Park and Tatlatui Provincial Park support
a large population of wildlife. The Spatsizi Plateau is one of the
most important habitats for woodland caribou in British Columbia,
while both parks support a variety of wildlife, including moose,
grizzly and black bears, wolves, beavers, hoary marmots, and more
than 140 species of birds, including gyrfalcons.
At last count,
the Grand Canyon of the Stikine, located in the Stikine
River Provincial Park, is home to more than 360 mountain goats,
which use the sheer canyon walls as effective protection from all
natural predators. Mount Edziza Provincial
Park also supports a large population of mountain goats, as
well as Stone sheep, moose, Osbourn caribou, grizzly and black bears,
and wolves.
Nearly 250 miles
(400 km) to the northwest is the Tatshenshini-Alsek
Provincial Wilderness Park. The Tat supports more than 53 species
of mammals, including wolverines, blue (or glacier) bear (thought
to be a variation of the black bear and found nowhere else Canada),
and grizzlies. About 200 of the known 400 Dall's sheep in the province
have their range year-round in this area. The park provides an important
travel route for waterfowl, with at least 40 bird species known
to use the region. These include trumpeter swans, peregrine falcons,
great grey owls, and bald eagles.
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